Thursday 17 November 2016

A TALE OF TWO RAILWAY LINES

A TALE OF TWO RAILWAY LINES
The lunatic line:
More than a century ago, some fellows contrived the idea of what would later be christened the lunatic line. The idea of constructing a railway line from the port of Mombasa to Lake Victoria and subsequently modern day Kampala seemed like sheer lunacy at its best. However, work began in 1896 but by 1898, the tale of the first railway line begins. The characters who fanned the events in this tale were actually two man eating lions. When the railway builders came to Tsavo river bridge section, (my online sources tell me that the name TSAVO means slaughter) they were faced by two man eating lions that kept attacking the camps and killing men in wild abandon.
The marauding lions named the Ghost and the Darkness persisted in their attacks to an extent that at some point,  the workers, locals and coolies alike, ran away and the work almost stalled. The tale is captured the book ‘The man eaters of Tsavo’ by Colonel John Henry Patterson (1907). A very highly exaggerated and largely inaccurate version is the 1996 film “the ghost and the darkness” starring Michael Douglas and Val Kilmer. Hence the first tale is the historical events surrounding the man eaters of TSAVO. However, that is not our story today Our story is the SGR tale!

The SGR tale.
The construction of the standard gauge railway line from the port of Mombasa to Nairobi was both a blessing a curse. It brought with it a flash flood of money and a tornado of evil. Small towns/ markets situated along the SGR route flourished with existing businesses thriving with the abundance of money. People who had never held 10,000 ksh in their hands found themselves handling a fortune vast enough to feed three generations of their progeny. Yes, 30,000ksh per month among the locals is a fortune worth writing a will over, marrying the girl of your dreams as well as settling scores with the old man who beat you to the girl of your dreams because at that time you were broke.
As it happens,  before the coming of mchaina (Chinese) and the SGR, quite a number of young men, had found themselves on the losing end when it came to the  tug of war of hearts. Smitten and endowed with love enough to revive the Mwene Mutapa empire a young man might be, but empty coffers do not run empires. In such a case, the scales of love would most likely be tipped in favour of the local butcher whose wallet unlike the broke young man’s,  holds more than  the national id card, a voter’s card  and a pack of expired  government issue condoms to be found in young men’s wallets. A pack of condoms that the young man would have put in the wallet when he was fifteen and now  he would be crowning   twenty one. When it comes to a love contest between the local butcher- the local butcher who wears a crimson read overcoat that was once white, the local butcher whose tools of trade range from sharp objects like knives, axes, power saws, burdizzo  and the guillotine machine, he who has a permanent fixture in the name of a tooth pick jutting from his mouth- and a young man who has nothing but a shy moustache and the telltale signs of a beard, then the odds would very definitely be stacked against the latter.
The coming of the standard gauge railway was a god sent event to right all wrongs. Wrongs committed against young men and by older, wealthier men. It had come to right historical injustices that reeked to high heavens of the callous nature of mankind. Wrongs committed on young budding love, wrongs that like an abominable curse would run from generation to generation. It would hurt, it would cut deep, torment and embarrass.  However, God perched somewhere in his celestial abode felt the ache in young men’s hearts and send his only Chinese to come and build the railway line so that whoever works for them will not be broke but will get money enough to enter the kingdom of love. With the thirty thousand shillings in your pocket, a pair of second hand reebok shoes, a faded pair of red jeans, a green shirt and a twenty shillings ‘gold chain’ around your neck, the gods of love, cupid,eros and Aphrodite combined are bound to be with you in spite of  your mouth stinking like a can of halitosis and fermented excrement  since it lastly saw a tooth brush during the Russian revolution.        

Pita (Peter) was one of the beneficiaries the great SGR revolution. He was a young man of about twenty five or thereby for no one cared to record the day, month or year he was born. Recording some unnecessary details like the date of birth is not one of the priorities for a woman who gives birth on her way from the river for such were the circumstances under which Pita was born. Those many years ago, his mother had gone to fetch water from the river when on her way back, labour pains struck.  The contractions came with the ferocity of the devil. This was her eighth pregnancy hence there was nothing new for her to learn. She simply laid down the water pot, undid her kanga and laid it on the grass and went on with the process of labour. Luckily, her neighbour was not far behind. Once she caught up with Pita’s mother, they went on with the process and after a while, a squirming baby boy was born.

Pita had always held loft dreams about the future. He had been conceived, born und brought up under the watchful eye of poverty. Poverty, like a faithful guardian angel always escorted him and his kin wherever they went. However, Pita was a dreamer; he dreamt of a day when he would have three meals in a day, he dreamt of a day he would eat without worrying about what the next day held for him. His mind would wander to far off  places, thinking about times he would eat chapati whenever he felt like it. Chapati was a meal for the wealthy and beyond his family’s wildest dreams. From a young age he associated chapati with holiness, salvation and the route to heaven for the only time his mother prepared chapati was Christmas time to celebrate the birth of Jesus. To call what his mother prepared chapati, would be not only a misnomer of grand proportions but also an insult to all generations of cooks traced right from Eve in Eden. It would be not only an insult but also a curse to all self-respecting chapati cooks. A curse that would call for fasting, cleansing and libation poured generously to invoke the intervention of ancestral cooks.
What Pita’s mother prepared in the name of chapati was nothing more than flattened dough with a generous sprinkling of stomach upsetting demons sandwiched in between. She remained true to her annual accomplishments of preparing diarrhoea inducing chapati without fail year in year out. The rhythm would always be the same, ingesting that rare delicacy, then the whole family would break in a house × latrine relay akin to a 4×4 Olympics relay race. The single family latrine could not efficiently serve the entire clan of 11 children so some would be dispatched off in a half marathon race to the neighbours’ pit latrines while the rest undertook a cross country race to the nearby forest. The last group of cross country athletes would be most spectacular for they would be trailed by  a horde of chicken and dogs waiting to partake of their share of Christmas spoils. What would follow would be a putrid excretion that would scorch the very soil it landed on  forming a hard pan that would require a nuclear bomb, heat seeking missiles and the fresh blood of a seventy year old virgin to break.

Now, on this particular day, Pita was awarded his life changing fortune in the name of a wage. As he held the 30,000 ksh in his hands he felt like he controlled the economy of the US, China and Russia combined. He was richer than King Mansa Musa of Timbuktu, he was, at least in his mind wealthier than John D. Rockefeller.  Such  wealth calls for careful handling least one lost it. Pita was not the kind of guy who believed in wallets- mark you this is not the only thing he did not believe in. He walked to a nearby washroom, undid his zipper to reveal his  ‘safe’.  His ‘safe,’ was an old pair of denim shorts that had lastly seen water during Noah’s deluge. It was a short fashioned out of a worn pair of jeans trousers that must have been originally worn by vasco da Gama. To say it was an ancient pair of shorts,  would be an understatement.
Pita loved his ancient pair of shorts for a myriad of reasons. First, it had a reliable set of pockets such that, he was always certain that whenever he put anything in the pockets, it would be safe. Second, he  had an unequaled aversion for boxer shorts or any form of constricting underwear. He belonged to the school that believed such garments were designed by colonizers to smother the growth in both girth and length of vital tools of trade. The third major reason was that, his pair of shorts would without fail always conceal the presence of the president whenever he declared his stature and strength at the wrong time or place.
After locking part of the fortune in his ‘safe’, with a noticeable spring in his stride – here I picture Okonkwo in Achebe’s Things fall apart-  he left the paymasters office and headed straight to the nearest watering hole. It was that time of the month when the young and old  alike indulged in a ritual of kuchoma maini in the name of kuambia mwili pole . (loosely translates to binge drinking after a month of hard work)

 The waitress was a woman whose age we cannot place. For certain we would have to rely on carbon dating to estimate her age for he looked like an extraction from eons earlier.  Her face had numerous scars that made her look like a survivor of the Hellenic wars, or perhaps due to the pigment of her skin, we can risk a guess she was a veteran of shaka Zulu’s army. That would be the most educated and innocent guess of those who do not possess  a twisted soul and  a broken personality like Pita, you and I.
All imbibers of the poison she sold in the name of alcohol knew that every mark on her face represented a serious brawl or a cat fight. Very prominent on her brow was the chief of all scars. The story goes, the waitress, some centuries earlier, had gone to claim her dues from one of her  clients. You know, before she had been promoted to the higher office of a waitress, she was in the business of peddling pleasure. She had a stream of customers and some of them would partake of the carnal pleasures on credit. The bills would be settled at the end of the month. One day, she had woken very early to claim her dues from a client who had enjoyed on credit. Hardly had the door opened when the client’s wife broke a bottle of white cap on her forehead. Anyway that is a story for another day.

Pita settled on a low table and proceeded to down a glass after another of alcohol. Five glasses down, Mr. president rose to address the nation in a state of nation address. Remember the office of the president is a very powerful office and more often than not, the president gets what he desires. Pita spotted a member of the citizenry and invited her to his table. The alcohol in him opened the orator in him and he proceeded to lay out his manifesto. She was a busy citizen and in not so many words, she informed him they should go to her house and  sign a memorandum of understanding. To this Pita agreed without the slightest hesitation. He quickly settled his bill and the two gaily walked into the darkness giggling. Along the way, Pita felt that her house was too far and suggested they make do with a nearby green lodge. They quickly identified  a thicket and stripped to the bare essentials.He was about to pull her into his arms when a nearby laugh of a hyena shook him to his core. He grabbed his clothes and broke in a Usain Bolt like sprint. In his rush, he forgot his safe!


 photos sourced   A TALE OF TWO RAILWAY LINES
The lunatic line:
More than a century ago, some fellows contrived the idea of what would later be christened the lunatic line. The idea of constructing a railway line from the port of Mombasa to Lake Victoria and subsequently modern day Kampala seemed like sheer lunacy at its best. However, work began in 1896 but by 1898, the tale of the first railway line begins. The characters who fanned the events in this tale were actually two man eating lions. When the railway builders came to Tsavo river bridge section, (my online sources tell me that the name TSAVO means slaughter) they were faced by two man eating lions that kept attacking the camps and killing men in wild abandon.
The marauding lions named the Ghost and the Darkness persisted in their attacks to an extent that at some point,  the workers, locals and coolies alike, ran away and the work almost stalled. The tale is captured the book ‘The man eaters of Tsavo’ by Colonel John Henry Patterson (1907). A very highly exaggerated and largely inaccurate version is the 1996 film “the ghost and the darkness” starring Michael Douglas and Val Kilmer. Hence the first tale is the historical events surrounding the man eaters of TSAVO. However, that is not our story today Our story is the SGR tale!

The SGR tale.
The construction of the standard gauge railway line from the port of Mombasa to Nairobi was both a blessing a curse. It brought with it a flash flood of money and a tornado of evil. Small towns/ markets situated along the SGR route flourished with existing businesses thriving with the abundance of money. People who had never held 10,000 ksh in their hands found themselves handling a fortune vast enough to feed three generations of their progeny. Yes, 30,000ksh per month among the locals is a fortune worth writing a will over, marrying the girl of your dreams as well as settling scores with the old man who beat you to the girl of your dreams because at that time you were broke.
As it happens,  before the coming of mchaina (Chinese) and the SGR, quite a number of young men, had found themselves on the losing end when it came to the  tug of war of hearts. Smitten and endowed with love enough to revive the Mwene Mutapa empire a young man might be, but empty coffers do not run empires. In such a case, the scales of love would most likely be tipped in favour of the local butcher whose wallet unlike the broke young man’s,  holds more than  the national id card, a voter’s card  and a pack of expired  government issue condoms to be found in young men’s wallets. A pack of condoms that the young man would have put in the wallet when he was fifteen and now  he would be crowning   twenty one. When it comes to a love contest between the local butcher- the local butcher who wears a crimson read overcoat that was once white, the local butcher whose tools of trade range from sharp objects like knives, axes, power saws, burdizzo  and the guillotine machine, he who has a permanent fixture in the name of a tooth pick jutting from his mouth- and a young man who has nothing but a shy moustache and the telltale signs of a beard, then the odds would very definitely be stacked against the latter.
The coming of the standard gauge railway was a god sent event to right all wrongs. Wrongs committed against young men and by older, wealthier men. It had come to right historical injustices that reeked to high heavens of the callous nature of mankind. Wrongs committed on young budding love, wrongs that like an abominable curse would run from generation to generation. It would hurt, it would cut deep, torment and embarrass.  However, God perched somewhere in his celestial abode felt the ache in young men’s hearts and send his only Chinese to come and build the railway line so that whoever works for them will not be broke but will get money enough to enter the kingdom of love. With the thirty thousand shillings in your pocket, a pair of second hand reebok shoes, a faded pair of red jeans, a green shirt and a twenty shillings ‘gold chain’ around your neck, the gods of love, cupid,eros and Aphrodite combined are bound to be with you in spite of  your mouth stinking like a can of halitosis and fermented excrement  since it lastly saw a tooth brush during the Russian revolution.        

Pita (Peter) was one of the beneficiaries the great SGR revolution. He was a young man of about twenty five or thereby for no one cared to record the day, month or year he was born. Recording some unnecessary details like the date of birth is not one of the priorities for a woman who gives birth on her way from the river for such were the circumstances under which Pita was born. Those many years ago, his mother had gone to fetch water from the river when on her way back, labour pains struck.  The contractions came with the ferocity of the devil. This was her eighth pregnancy hence there was nothing new for her to learn. She simply laid down the water pot, undid her kanga and laid it on the grass and went on with the process of labour. Luckily, her neighbour was not far behind. Once she caught up with Pita’s mother, they went on with the process and after a while, a squirming baby boy was born.

Pita had always held loft dreams about the future. He had been conceived, born und brought up under the watchful eye of poverty. Poverty, like a faithful guardian angel always escorted him and his kin wherever they went. However, Pita was a dreamer; he dreamt of a day when he would have three meals in a day, he dreamt of a day he would eat without worrying about what the next day held for him. His mind would wander to far off  places, thinking about times he would eat chapati whenever he felt like it. Chapati was a meal for the wealthy and beyond his family’s wildest dreams. From a young age he associated chapati with holiness, salvation and the route to heaven for the only time his mother prepared chapati was Christmas time to celebrate the birth of Jesus. To call what his mother prepared chapati, would be not only a misnomer of grand proportions but also an insult to all generations of cooks traced right from Eve in Eden. It would be not only an insult but also a curse to all self-respecting chapati cooks. A curse that would call for fasting, cleansing and libation poured generously to invoke the intervention of ancestral cooks.
What Pita’s mother prepared in the name of chapati was nothing more than flattened dough with a generous sprinkling of stomach upsetting demons sandwiched in between. She remained true to her annual accomplishments of preparing diarrhoea inducing chapati without fail year in year out. The rhythm would always be the same, ingesting that rare delicacy, then the whole family would break in a house × latrine relay akin to a 4×4 Olympics relay race. The single family latrine could not efficiently serve the entire clan of 11 children so some would be dispatched off in a half marathon race to the neighbours’ pit latrines while the rest undertook a cross country race to the nearby forest. The last group of cross country athletes would be most spectacular for they would be trailed by  a horde of chicken and dogs waiting to partake of their share of Christmas spoils. What would follow would be a putrid excretion that would scorch the very soil it landed on  forming a hard pan that would require a nuclear bomb, heat seeking missiles and the fresh blood of a seventy year old virgin to break.

Now, on this particular day, Pita was awarded his life changing fortune in the name of a wage. As he held the 30,000 ksh in his hands he felt like he controlled the economy of the US, China and Russia combined. He was richer than King Mansa Musa of Timbuktu, he was, at least in his mind wealthier than John D. Rockefeller.  Such  wealth calls for careful handling least one lost it. Pita was not the kind of guy who believed in wallets- mark you this is not the only thing he did not believe in. He walked to a nearby washroom, undid his zipper to reveal his  ‘safe’.  His ‘safe,’ was an old pair of denim shorts that had lastly seen water during Noah’s deluge. It was a short fashioned out of a worn pair of jeans trousers that must have been originally worn by vasco da Gama. To say it was an ancient pair of shorts,  would be an understatement.
Pita loved his ancient pair of shorts for a myriad of reasons. First, it had a reliable set of pockets such that, he was always certain that whenever he put anything in the pockets, it would be safe. Second, he  had an unequaled aversion for boxer shorts or any form of constricting underwear. He belonged to the school that believed such garments were designed by colonizers to smother the growth in both girth and length of vital tools of trade. The third major reason was that, his pair of shorts would without fail always conceal the presence of the president whenever he declared his stature and strength at the wrong time or place.
After locking part of the fortune in his ‘safe’, with a noticeable spring in his stride – here I picture Okonkwo in Achebe’s Things fall apart-  he left the paymasters office and headed straight to the nearest watering hole. It was that time of the month when the young and old  alike indulged in a ritual of kuchoma maini in the name of kuambia mwili pole . (loosely translates to binge drinking after a month of hard work)

 The waitress was a woman whose age we cannot place. For certain we would have to rely on carbon dating to estimate her age for he looked like an extraction from eons earlier.  Her face had numerous scars that made her look like a survivor of the Hellenic wars, or perhaps due to the pigment of her skin, we can risk a guess she was a veteran of shaka Zulu’s army. That would be the most educated and innocent guess of those who do not possess  a twisted soul and  a broken personality like Pita, you and I.
All imbibers of the poison she sold in the name of alcohol knew that every mark on her face represented a serious brawl or a cat fight. Very prominent on her brow was the chief of all scars. The story goes, the waitress, some centuries earlier, had gone to claim her dues from one of her  clients. You know, before she had been promoted to the higher office of a waitress, she was in the business of peddling pleasure. She had a stream of customers and some of them would partake of the carnal pleasures on credit. The bills would be settled at the end of the month. One day, she had woken very early to claim her dues from a client who had enjoyed on credit. Hardly had the door opened when the client’s wife broke a bottle of white cap on her forehead. Anyway that is a story for another day.

Pita settled on a low table and proceeded to down a glass after another of alcohol. Five glasses down, Mr. president rose to address the nation in a state of nation address. Remember the office of the president is a very powerful office and more often than not, the president gets what he desires. Pita spotted a member of the citizenry and invited her to his table. The alcohol in him opened the orator in him and he proceeded to lay out his manifesto. She was a busy citizen and in not so many words, she informed him they should go to her house and  sign a memorandum of understanding. To this Pita agreed without the slightest hesitation. He quickly settled his bill and the two gaily walked into the darkness giggling. Along the way, Pita felt that her house was too far and suggested they make do with a nearby green lodge. They quickly identified  a thicket and stripped to the bare essentials.He was about to pull her into his arms when a nearby laugh of a hyena shook him to his core. He grabbed his clothes and broke in a Usain Bolt like sprint. In his rush, he forgot his safe!







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